Wood Lathe Live Center Tailstock
CNC router parts · 1 option in stock
CNC router parts — the odds and ends that are specific to a router build. The parameters are listed in order of importance: the one at the top decides the most, and no amount of care further down makes up for getting it wrong.
This page lists 1 option, from ¥58.5.
What this part is
A wood lathe live centre goes in the tailstock and supports the far end of the workpiece. There are bearings inside, so the point turns with the work — hence live, as opposed to a dead centre, which stays still and rubs.
The parts of this item
Figure 1 — This family covers three things: spindles, handwheels, rack and pinion — look at the one you are buying
The parameters that matter
Not every number on a part like this is worth the same. These are the ones that decide whether it fits and works, and what to look at for each.
| Parameter | What to check |
|---|---|
| Taper | Usually MT2 / MT3. It must match the tailstock quill — the wrong taper either will not seat or will not hold. |
| Point type | Plain cone, cup, or multi-tooth. A cone goes in a centre drill hole; a cup bears on a flat face; multi-tooth grips end grain against slipping. |
| Load | By workpiece weight and speed. Big diameter work wants a large body with a heavy-duty bearing. |
Reading the part numbers
| Part no. | Configuration |
|---|---|
EG-086 | single configuration |
You can order by part number or by selecting the parameters. The part number is fastest, but it does not always encode every parameter — the selector on this page is the authority.
5 common mistakes
- Measure first. Router parts are not standardised — the same function from two makers has different dimensions.
- Watch the handedness. Directional parts fitted backwards do not work, and often fit anyway.
- Check the thread. M6 and 1/4 inch look alike and differ by 0.35 mm. One of them will cross-thread and feel tight.
- Measure before you order. Take the old part off and measure it, or send us a photo with the caliper reading — that beats guessing from a model number every time.
- Everything here is in millimetres. Where a size is imperial, convert it: 1" = 25.4 mm, 1/4" = 6.35 mm, 3/32" = 2.38 mm.
Telling it apart from lookalikes
Against a dead centre: a dead centre is one solid taper, does not rotate, and suits low speed, high accuracy and light cuts. A live centre follows the work on bearings, which suits speed and weight — at the cost of accuracy limited by bearing clearance.
Confirming it is the right part
This page has one configuration, so there is nothing to choose — which makes confirming that it is the right part more important than studying the specification. Three steps is enough:
- Measure the mating dimension — the one place this part touches something else: bore, shaft, thread, tube OD, or hex across flats. It is the number people get wrong, and half a millimetre out means it will not fit.
- Measure the outline and the mounting hole spacing. Two parts that do the same job from two makers often differ by 2–3 mm between holes: it looks like it will fit, and it goes on crooked.
- Send us two photographs: one general view showing the machine and where the part sits, and one close-up with the caliper reading in shot. If the machine has a nameplate, include it — plenty of these parts are specific to one machine, and the model number locates them faster than dimensions do.
When to replace it
You do not replace this until it fails — but "still looks usable" and "still reliable" are two different things. Any one of these and it is time:
- Judge by the part: wear, deformation or growing play all mean replace.
Fitting and use
Before you fit it
- Measure the part you are replacing, not the drawing. On a machine that has been running, the drawing and the machine are rarely the same.
- Check the mating part as well — a correct part on a worn mating face still does not fit properly.
- Lay the new part next to the old one before you take anything apart. If they do not match, you have found the problem before the machine is in pieces.
Fitting
- Clean the mounting faces. A burr or a chip under a bracket puts it out of square and no amount of tightening fixes it.
- Bring fasteners up finger tight first, then torque in a cross pattern. One screw taken to full torque first pulls the part off position.
- Check freedom of movement before final tightening. If it binds, it is misaligned, not tight.
After fitting
- Run it through the full travel by hand, slowly, before applying power.
- Check again after the first hour of use — fasteners settle and things move.
- Keep the old part. If the new one fails you want something to compare against.
Do not
- Do not force a part that does not fit. It is the wrong part or it is not square, and forcing it damages both.
- Do not reuse a fastener that has already been stretched or has damaged threads.
- Do not skip the alignment check to save time. It is the cheapest step and the one that decides how long the part lasts.
Matching parts
- Matched to the specific part
Lead time, custom work and shipping
- Stock sizes: dispatched in 1–2 working days, subject to stock
- Custom: non-standard sizes, materials and treatments are possible — send quantity and drawing
- Shipping: from Shenzhen; domestic courier by default, DHL or dedicated line for export
- Volume: quantity pricing available, contact us for a quote
If you cannot find the size you need, or you are not sure which one fits, send us the problem you are solving — what machine it goes on, the dimensions of the part you have, what it has to achieve — and we will match it.